Professional spot & stain removal procedures
by Jeff Cross     

The standard of measurement of your entire cleaning ability can all come down to a tiny spot on the carpet.

 

And even if you have a successful cleaning job, and remove all spots or stains, one or more can return and cause you to make a non-profitable "free" cleaning.

 

The first order of business with proper spot or stain removal is to identify the substance in the carpet (or piece of furniture, if that is what you are cleaning.)

 

Of course, the easiest way to identify what needs cleaned is by asking the customer what created the spot or stain.

 

This doesn't mean the customer will be right, but most likely will have a good idea of what the cause might have been.

 

Ways you can best determine the content of a spot or stain can include:

  • Analyze the location (different rooms should have different types of spots or stains)
  • Analyze what the spot or stain looks like, and use your own experience in determining what it might be. You can also test the spot/stain for a pH reading, as this can help determine the type of spot/stain
  • Use a pocket microscope to determine if the material is in the fiber, or if it is on the fiber (a spot on the fiber often has a "clumpy" look, while stains inside the fiber usually don't leave matter on the outside of the fiber
  • Smell (for the strong of heart)

After identification

 

After you identify the spot or stain, you need to determine the class of chemical needed to remove it.

 

In general terms, use the following guidelines:

  • If the spot or stain is petroleum based or solvent-soluble (inks, oils, greases, adhesives, paints, etc.), use a dry solvent spotter (included in this class are gel solvents)
  • If the spot or stain can be determined to have a specific pH and/or you find it to be a water-soluble spot or stain, you can use the proper water-based cleaning agent to neutralize the spot or stain
  • If you have a synthetic stain (man-made or synthetic, such as red dyes, candy or food, etc) use a reducing agent
  • If the stain is natural or organic (coffee, tea, condiments, mustard, etc), use an oxidizing agent
  • If the spot or stain is protein (vomit, feces, blood, etc) use a protein digester
  • Remember that these are guidelines, and that use of one or even two of these on a specific spot or stain might be best.

Coffee, for instance, needs an acid-based agent to remove and dissolve the natural tannins, but after that it often needs an oxidizing agent to remove remaining stains.

 

The physical removal

 

After determining the identity of the spot or stain and the proper chemistry needed for removal, follow these physical steps:

  1. Remove contamination (blot, vacuum).
  2. If unknown sources, start with dry solvent spotter, and then move to wet solvent spotter.
  3. Use small amounts of spotting solution (flip-top bottles work well in controlling amount of solution).
  4. Be careful when working cleaning solution into the fiber, as you do not want to add moisture to the base of the carpet or the cushion where it can wick back and cause a recurring spot.
  5. Use a tamping brush and towel, and be careful of agressive agitation as it can damage the fibers.
  6. Work from the outside in, to keep spots or stains from spreading.
  7. Be sure to have plenty of blotting material (cotton towels) or a vacuum capable of pulling moisture from the fabric.
  8. Add heat to the spot or stain, when needed. This activates the chemical and makes it work faster - but be careful of some spots or stains, such as protein based, as excessive heat can set the protein matter permanently, or at the very least make it more difficult to remove. It's safer to use steam such as from a wallpaper steamer. You can also add safer heat by putting a hot water bottle or a bucket of hot water on a damp towel on top of the stain.
  9. Remember that dry solvents work much faster than wet solvents. Be sure to ventilate adequately when using dry solvents.

More than just cleaning


Patience is often needed when dealing with tough spots or stains. 

 

Some spots and stains need the chemical added to the textile, and then time to work.

 

This can be as much as 24 hours (you can keep textiles damp and the chemical working by covering the spot or stain with a piece of plastic and a weight.)
 
Remember, though, that with increased contact time you also have increased risk of fiber damage or color loss.


You will get better results if you can identify what you are cleaning and then match up your cleaning chemical and procedure.

 

It isn't always easy... but then, if it was easy, your customers wouldn't need YOU.

 

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